How to Bring More Outside Light into a House

Dark rooms can make your home feel small and dreary, and letting some natural light in is a great way to open up the space. The easiest way to bring more outside light into your house is to clean and open up your windows so they are letting in as much light as possible. However, even if you do not have a ton of bright windows in your home, there are still things you can do to make it sunnier, like painting your walls a lighter color and using reflective decor. For particularly dark rooms, you can also use LED lights and special fixtures that replicate natural lighting.

1. Neon or LED lights under a car in canada legal?

Under Car Led Lights

2. if only led lights, nation wide were used, what reduction in electricity is there?

What nation? The US? Well, the Department of Energy puts it in the 300 terawatt range, though they do not say 100% or cover a mix of LED and Fluorescent.

3. Are these 3 switches wired correctly?

The switches appear to be wired correctly. The switch on the right appears to be an LED-compatible, triac dimmer. But you have one triac-dimmer switch for LED lights (on the right), and another switch that controls the fan plus another LED bulb? This bulb is the problem. .. or this fixture cannot be used with that particular model of LED bulb.Generally, LED dimmers are not the same as fan dimmers. You can not dim many models of LED lights with a fan dimmer unless you had LED bulb(s) that are specifically compatible with traditional or fan dimmers (now technically, fan dimmers are actually a little different than traditional dimmers, but for your issue that should not really matter). I think you need to find an LED bulb that says it is compatable with traditional dimmers for the one socket being operated by the fan switch

4. how do i wire led lights in my car? i have an extra set from a 2006scion tc for my car, a mazda 626(1999).?

On a car the ground is the body of the vehcile. Other than that, what kind of l.e.d.'s are they...what are they for? interior, outside, decorative?

5. How to power a circuit of LEDs with maximum 5v

The company, Evans Designs, makes LED lights for electric trains. They are not all that expensive, either, and come with necessary circuitry.To a first approximation, common $5:textrmmm$ LEDs should be operated with a constant current and not a constant voltage. Clearly, you know that. But given the wider dynamic range of your source voltage, a special circuit to provide a constant current would help.If you want to try doing this with just one (or two) BJT(s), you could attempt either of the following two choices at very low cost.simulate this circuit - Schematic created using CircuitLabCurrent for the LED in the left-hand side circuit comes through $R_2$, with $Q_1$ diverting (it's a shunt regulator) any extra current through its collector. $R_2=fracV_BE_1I_led$. (You can assume that $V_BE_1approx 760-800:textrmmV$ for a small signal device.) And $R_1=fracV_min-V_led-V_BE_11.5cdot I_led$, where $V_min$ is your minimum DC operating voltage and $V_led$ is, of course, your LED's operating voltage. The serious problem for this circuit is that $R_1$ will dissipate terrible amounts of power when operating at the higher voltages. Perhaps a watt, or more, as it has to drop all that extra voltage.The right hand circuit attempts to deal with that problem. In this case, $Q_3$ will be dissipating the excess power at higher voltages. But since the current is fixed (roughly) across the input voltage ranges, the power is not terrible. Perhaps $200:textrmmW$ when talking about $I_led=20:textrmmA$. But keep in mind that this goes linearly upwards with increasing LED current and linearly downward when talking about less LED current. So just be aware of that.In this right-hand circuit, $Q_3$ wo not be operated in saturation. With $V_BE_2approx 680:textrmmV$ and $V_ledle 3. 2:textrmV$, $V_CE_3$ should be enough to stay out of saturation. However, if the LED voltage is more, then it's possible that $Q_3$ might go a little into saturation. So I would recommend assuming $beta_3approx 50$ for purposes of setting $R_4$. So, $R_4=beta_3cdotfracV_min-V_BE_2-V_BE_3I_led$ to supply needed base current for $Q_3$ (plus a little, given that $beta_3$ is taken as a relatively low value.) Without $Q_2$ and $R_3$ present, there would be no current control. But with $R_3=fracV_BE_2I_led$, the voltage developed across $R_3$ will begin to turn on $Q_2$, which will shunt (sink) base current away from $Q_3$ when the LED current rises more than desired. The result of all this on the right-hand circuit is that there is not so much of a waste of power. It's better, in short, than the left-hand circuit when considering dissipation. But it costs you some complexity. Still, it's small and easy enough that you can pack it into heat-shrink tubing and be done with it. It should work fine. My recommendation, of course, is the right-hand circuit. Even with higher desired LED currents, you can probably get away with a small signal BJT. But I would recommend testing that idea, too. It's a maybe and not a for-sure. One thing I worry about here is that there is no temperature compensation at all and if $Q_3$ heats up a lot and passes that heat along to $Q_2$, then base-emitter junction voltage of $Q_2$ drops significantly and this will reduce the LED current. But I think it may be fine for $20:textrmmA$ and may be still somewhat less "ok" at somewhat higher currents.NOTE: [If you found a problem with heating in the right-hand circuit (unlikely with $I_led=15:textrmmA$), I might parallel two small signal BJTs as $Q_3$ and, if being really picky, might only connect the collectors and bases together, but not connect the emitters directly -- instead using a small series resistor in each emitter leg before connecting them together. In this picky case, I would select these two emitter resistors to drop about $200:textrmmV$, so with $I_led=15:textrmmA$ these would probably be $12-15:Omega$ resistor values.]I get my BJTs at about 3 for a penny. My resistors cost me as much, too. So that's about two cents for the right-hand circuit, plus labor, solder, shrink-wrap, and the LED of course. In short, the electronics bits are essentially free and they are not boutique parts and never will be. So it's good in that sense, as well.