LED Downlight for Home and Office Applications

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• RELATED QUESTION

After one or two years of using LED bulbs, half of them have burned out or deteriorated. Did you have similar experiences?

Yes and No. You must have bought cheap knock-offs and no name brand.There are 3 types of LED light bulbs I've installed in my home since 2010:Type 1: Earliest model, installed in 2010CREE LED module with cheap electronics (obviously bought from China). These were assembled (and soldered) by myself by combining the bulb housing, heatsink, LED module, and the electronics. I have 4-off these:3 of them still in good working condition until today;1 of them popped (not the LED, but the electronics) just couple months ago).Type 2: Finished LED bulb, installed in 2011I have 7 of these bulbs, basically bought as a finished products. No name brand (again, bought relatively cheap back then from China):2 of them popped (again, only electronics, not the LED modules). The one that popped failed within the same time frame (within a year from installation date);The rest, 5 of them, still going strong until last year. I replaced those not because they were no longer working, but simply replaced them with Phillips branded LED bulb as they have better colour rendering.Type 3: Finished good quality LED bulb (Phillips), installed 2013 and so on. I have first 3 Phillips LED installed in 2013, bought it with my blood (very expensive). Only one of them have a single LED failure in the bulb (each bulb have 4 LEDs);Another 6 Phillips LED installed last year (replacing Type 2 above). No problem to date

When dimmable LED lights are dimmed, what impact is it likely to have on how long they last?

Hard to say. “dimmable“ LED lights usually have a PWM circuit to do the dimming. Lower light could mean narrower pulses or less of them depending on how the dimming is achieved. And I do not know what the major lifetime limiter is on LED's. Could be turn-ons and turn offs, which can be the most stressful things for some devices. Or it could be just total on time. Or some combination of both. I would try putting “LED lifetime“ or something like that into your favorite search engine and see what comes up. I am sure there's been more than a paper or two written on the subject.

Resistor and LED basic circuit, the resistor eats the extra voltage?

The resistor feeds the current to the LED. The LED only receives current given to it, not the current it needs. The LED only takes the voltage it needs, the rest goes through the resistor.

High Frequency Blinking LED [closed]

Especially considering size and weight, I would use a PIC 10F200 microcontroller. It has a oscillator built in, and needs no other components other than a bypass cap to drive a LED. It can also run from a reasonably wide voltage range, including 3. 7 V. The internal oscillator is good to a few percent. The instruction cycle rate is 1 MHz driven by that oscillator. At 1-5 kHz, you have a minimum of 200 cycles per blink period, or 100 cycles per blink phase. That's plenty to do a little counting to decide when to toggle the LED state.The output pins can source or sink a few mA, and you can gang three of them together to get more current capability to drive the LED directly with a resistor in series to set the current

Connecting power and LED lights to motherboard from case?

Power SW - pins 3rd and 4th from top right Reset SW - pins 1st and 2nd on top right H.D.D. LED - pins 3rd and 4th from bottom left - P LED - 5th from top left (or 6th) P LED - 6th from top left (or 5th) Be sure to face the pin connectors so the writing on the connectors faces towards the outside of the MB. The P LED ones may be reversed.

I am wanting to make an LED light bar consisting of 6 LEDs. I am wanting to power these via AA battery.?

you are able to desire to renowned the required LED modern. i could guess it rather is approximately 20 mA. opt for a resistor which will supply a nominal 20 mA on the “consumer-friendly“ LED voltage. this could be (12-6. 6)/. 02=270 ohms.

How do LED lights change electricity into light.?

LED'S A light-emitting diode (LED) is a semiconductor device that emits incoherent narrow-spectrum light when electrically biased in the forward direction of the p-n junction. This effect is a form of electroluminescence. An LED is a small extended source with extra optics added to the chip that makes it emit a complex radiation pattern . The color of the emitted light depends on the composition and condition of the semiconducting material used, and can be infrared, visible or near-ultraviolet.

How do you calculate the J/cm2 or W/cm2 of an LED?

First you need to find out the LED specs for: - the typical beamwidth in steradians (solid angle) - the typical conversion efficiency (electrical energy to light energy) You also need to know the distance from the LED the irradiance is required, since it's an inverse square law. If the specs are not available you could estimate them - beamwidth = 1 steradian (maybe less) - efficiency = 50% overall (maybe more) Then if the irradiance is calculated at a radial distance of 1 m, the spherical surface area subtended by 1 steradian is exactly 1 m² which makes your calculation very easy! (4π steradians for whole sphere). So now calculate your electrical power in W = (LED voltage)*(LED current (A)) Then multiply by the efficiency figure, and you have Irradiance in W/m² Multiply again by 10000 and you have W/cm² (at a distance of 1m).

Is there a difference between connecting the input of a logic gate to the anode or cathode of LED

You have made "life hard on yourself" by not simplifying the circuits such that it is easier to see what their difference is.I have re-drawn your circuits, they are exactly the same circuits as yours. But do not take my word for it, check that yourself!simulate this circuit - Schematic created using CircuitLabNow note how the only difference is in the way that the input of the AND gate is connected. From the LEDs point of view, the circuits are the same. Each LED is directly in parallel with the input voltage source.Do realize that this circuit does not "do" much. LEDs always need a series resistor. Also LEDs need more than 1 V to light up.Your question does not make much sense either, do not think of connecting the input of the logic gate to anode or cathode, think of it in terms of connecting to supply voltage or ground

LED Lights for the Woodworking Workshop

I think what your main question on this is what would be the difference be between fluorescent/incandescent and LED lights. If I were you I would go with LED lighting. My workshop is outside and using fluorescent takes a while to warm up, along with it as I am working they are picky. One flickers when I use the table saw and vacuum at the same time. When using the LEDs I had no problem because of their low power usage. The LED type I would get is a good old light bulb type. They provide plenty of light. Sometimes it can be too bright depending on the ones you get. Incandescent I have never really used so I have nothing on that.Overall, get the LED. I can almost guarantee that you will not regret as long as you get the ones that fit your expectation like brightness or warm light vs. natural light.

Does anyone know where I can get a set of Red LED speakers for my car?

Just a warning, most of the boxes that include LEDs are cheap low quality junk. They are all looks and usually loaded with cheap subwoofers.You are best off adding a seperate LED kit or LED speaker grill that has a music interface mode. Trust me you will NOT be happy with any subs that comes with LEDs. Avoid cheap low quality FUSION and VISONIC and those other junk brands found at autopart stores & Walmart they are junk

Understanding LED powerstrip and power requirements

OK. So I assume you are connecting the strip to the 5V (as in the Vin) pin on the Teensy. If so, that is the same as just connecting the battery directly to the strip. Assuming the Anker really had 72 Wh capacity and you were outputting 5V the whole time (for simplicity of the math), then you would have had 4. 8 hrs of life. This also means that the LEDs are only running at 3A which is anywhere from 1/6 to 3/5 of their max brightness. This is usually hard to tell unless you had a way to fully drive them at max current (e.g. 18 A 5V).So why did it last for 15 hrs?My guess is that these particular LEDs only draw 1/3 of their rated current at 5V so instead of getting the 4. 8 hrs you got three times that much. This kind of variation in LED current is not uncommon but seems a bit on the high side to me

Making three LED's blink at given times [duplicate]

EDIT: I just love Finit State Machines and templates to do some simple tasks:The code should be working, so as mentioned before in that duplicate thread, 220k is far bigger than it should be. So just use 220R (= 220 Ohms) instead of 220k Ohms (= 220000 Ohms).And if it's not working even with correct resistor, your LED is connected in reversed direction. Try the builtin LED on pin 13. That one must be working. Anyway you should read something about LEDs

Why does my wind turbine not light my LED bulb?

You need at least 10 mA to turn a single LED on. If your turbine cannot supply that current, the LED wo not turn on. You not only need voltage, you need also current. A LED drops about 1.2 V and need 10-20 mA to go on.

Why are most people moving to LED lighting?

LED Lighting produce less heat, reducing unnecessary strain on the air conditioning system, reduces energy use and costs.LEDs can last 25 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs and 80% more efficient, so businesses that install LEDs can also reduce labour costs associated with replacing lamps that burn out.LED lights contain no toxic elements which are environment friendly. Why are most people moving to LED lighting?

Correct size resistor to light a 17v LED with a capacitor?

In general for calculating the resistance needed for to protect your LED you can use this formula:$$ R = frac(V_source - V_LED)I_MAX $$In your case, your source for the LED is the capacitor, which fully charged will be at 20V. The voltage drop across your LED is 17V, and its max current is 750 mA, so$$ R = frac20 V - 17 V750 mA = 4Omega $$Practically, your resistor should be slightly larger because your boost converter may charge the capacitor to slightly over 20 V or your LED may not quite handle 750 mA. Also, your resistor needs to dissipate $$ P = R*I^2 = 4Omega * (0.75A)^2 = 2.25 W $$which is significant.

Which type of LED flashlight is better? Shaking, Crank, Wind-Up, or Traditional battery ones?

Crank/Wind-up? To me, those are the same. Dont' get one...both cranks broke and we were not going crazy with it. I like the LED because the light is so much brighter, but from our experience? Our LED flashlights break on us, they never last more than a year, some a few months. Of course, they are probably not the highest-rated, or most expensive, but I am sick of it. The plug-in ones are the most reliable for us so far. You can keep them plugged in as a night light, then when you need it, it's fully charged and you can switch it on to bright. They've lasted about 5 years this way. The brand is Energizer Weather Battery. They come in different sizes. They are very durable, and light lasts a long time but I've also not left it on for an hour at a time to know how long it would run. I hope this is somewhat helpful, our family is rough on flashlights I guess. :) If I would want to buy the ideal one and spend a little more $ I would get a Maglite LED Flashlight. Good luck!.