Buy led you can going to Ebay , Amazon etc.But why you want to buy cheap led bulb? That's for your self it is not good. Cheap led bulb will take you bad moon feel, the lighting is not good, will let's you looks like ugly ....also important, cheap led bulb have not passed basic test, maybe can take some safe dangers !Please consider it!
1. How much does it cost to produce a 14W LED bulb in India?
A Philips Stellar Bright 14W Led Bulb Costs Rs 450 single piece via Distributor Philips.His Margin is Rs 50/-in one bulb.The Co margin is Rs 100 in a bulb.So making cost would be Rs 300 or even less
2. Can you suggest a cheap LED bulb which can compare to a Philips white ambiance?
Cheap is the problem and there is no simple answer to your question. Unfortunately, the LED market has been flooded with cheap and not-cheap product and I defy the typical light bulb buyer to know the difference. Most LEDs available now are made in a region in China. Many of these products are now falling short of their life expectancy because of poor quality. Much of the time, that equals cheap.Even knowing how to read labels will not give you the answer. They need to be fired up and once you "invest", you may not be pleased. I do know, after 43 years in the lighting business, the most beautiful light I ever saw from an LED was the most expensive at the time. Soraa.LEDs are not light bulbs and involve a tremendous amount of technology to make light that is pleasing to the eye. Native LED is blue. When the color is messed with, it creates heat. The heat becomes the problem. Not all LEDs are created equal. My dad always said, "Sometimes cheap is expensive." If you like the Philips, buy the Philips and save yourself some trouble.Can you suggest a cheap LED bulb which can compare to a Philips white ambiance?.
3. Can I use a 15w LED bulb in a fixture that says max 40w incandescent or 11w CFL? [duplicate]
Two issuesWith all lights now on the market, quite close to 100% of the energy turns into heat. That means essentially we can assume the actual-watt rating of the bulb equates to its heat output. The fixture is rated to handle the heat of a 40W bulb. So it will not be damaged if the CFL/LED is less than 40 watts. This varies wildly, because it's all about how air moves through the fixture. While an incandescent works great inside an oven, CFLs and LEDs both dislike excessive heat. So it's a question of how well heat can leave the fixture, or alternately, how well air moves through the fixture... and that varies wildly depending on fixture design. It's pretty much a matter of trial and error. It helps a lot to use quality screw-in LED "bulbs" with well-built power supplies and overbuilt heat sinks -- as opposed to the built-for-price cheapies often found in the big box and dollar stores
4. Can I plug my 110V/2W/a7mA LED bulb into my 250V/660W lamp?
NO!!! If the voltage on one of them says 110V...i am gonna say the max you can put into it is about 125V....so definitely not....but hey...i am only 15...but I sure do love my electricity, and my computer, and all the things i've built. ...SMART!.
5. Strange behaviour of a LED bulb via SSR Relay: it's EMI?
Try to use 1K pull-up resistor with button, internal pull-up might not be enough to hold HIGH level with stronger EMI nearby.Also set unused pins to INPUT_PULLUP mode (or OUTPUT) - they are floating after reset and it catches all kinds of interferences (if it's not a problem here it usually causes much higher current consumption by MCU)
6. LED bulb replacement in Dusk-Dawn Outdoor 175W light
You will need to bypass the ballast! Failing to do so will fry the LED. Corncob LEDs are always a bad idea. They are inefficient. They intentionally defeat the best characteristic of LED -- that they make a wedge of light, which is what you really want.Look around at lights. You have wallpack lights painting a super bright spot on the wall (useless), path lights lighting a huge circle not just the path . .. and oh, the skyglow! Just here at this restaurant the car dealer's halide light is blasting in the window from across the highway. Meanwhile at the gas station, the canopy lights make the pump area glow pleasantly, but even the trees in front of the place are pitch black. Their lights are LED and are properly aimed. This saves them a fortune. Fact is, halide lights are about as efficient as LED. If you go with a corncob LED, you wo not save any money unless the LED is less bright: this is a common con-job when selling LEDs. I saw one ad claiming their 45 watt, 3300 lumen LED is more efficient that the 175 watt metal halide . um. .. a 175W MH is 14,600 lumens. It would take 4 of those corncobs to make the same light, and it's actually less efficient.Your linked one is 7000 lm, half the brightness of your MH.On the other hand, if you aim the LED in exactly the wedge of light that you want, you are still no more lumen efficient, but you are only paying for the lumens that are actually on target. We once had seven 400W halide lights (3150W) lighting up a 400' right-of-way (and also, half the town). They were on city poles, so the location was not good. This was costing $1600/year. I specced a mere 250W of extremely well-aimed LED spots, $125/year. Anyway, for former halide lights, I just mount an aimed fixture inside the old diffuser, aimed out the hole in the bottom. A tiny amount of splash light makes the diffuser glow, it looks nice